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Topic: Engine claimer rule revisited. Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 3 of 4   of  64 replies
pushtruckmatt
MyWebsite
May 07, 2007 at 09:31:15 AM
Joined: 07/23/2006
Posts: 180
Reply

great win guys. man i guess that was good that u used ur car as show and tell. haha. Well i will see yall next week and enjoy the rain.


Dont get mad at me, im just the pushtruck guy.


www.myspace.com/pushtruckguy

D_Waller
May 07, 2007 at 10:34:02 AM
Joined: 08/09/2005
Posts: 320
Reply

Thank's Matt, well it is a rule after your 3rd win to be checked, by the way thank's for push starting my Mod a week ago when the we needed it, cya next week.


Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock 
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.


doingdirt
May 07, 2007 at 11:06:44 AM
Joined: 04/27/2007
Posts: 30
Reply

Me too, glad to see. I guess when my car is finished I'll race at Brill's. I think I found me a new track to race at BRILL'S MOTOR SPEEDWAY. This really show Brill's is the true place to race.




P Colby
May 07, 2007 at 06:04:03 PM
Joined: 11/08/2006
Posts: 163
Reply

congrats

Danny and Johnny good job



dirtrack29&28
May 13, 2007 at 10:28:08 AM
Joined: 11/08/2006
Posts: 75
Reply

So, the engine claimer rule is not popular with some of you racers (people). What rule change is? There has to be some way to get the racing in factory stock back to racing. Back to the guy can't afford the bank to race, but can afford to inprove the race car over time. I don't mind the ford rear-end, mini-clutches, quick steer, tires, power steering, radiator. What I like to see is a change in the engine department. Carb, intake, vaccum, and distrubtor type are the best way to keep factory stocks a good close fun racing class. Plus the tech check would be easier. So, in my idea, it would not so much matter what a person puts in the bottom end of the motor. Then set-up would be the prime reason why the cars are fast. If you disagree, Then all I can say is you must be a $10,000 plus motor type person.


That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.

Crazydeke
May 13, 2007 at 11:21:24 AM
Joined: 02/26/2006
Posts: 221
Reply

This is the rule from SFS.

4.04: ENGINE

A. Must be stock and OEM V-8 cast iron block and same manufacturer as frame and body.

GM in GM, Ford in Ford, etc. No modifications or alterations of any type, No “performance

engines or components”, NO SVO, Bowtie, direct connection, Chevrolet vortex engines

or engine components or Mopar Performance parts of any type. All engines

and components must be stock and OEM. No polished rods, no floating wrist pins. Block

must match crank and rods. Maximum displacement to include wear and clearance is

GM-368 Ford-368 Chrysler-368. GM engines must be based on a block assembly no

larger than 350 ci. No modifications or alterations of any type except pinning the studs.

Screw-in replacements and guide plates are allowed. Polylock rocker arm adjusting nuts

allowed. Heads must remain in stock location. No moving or offsetting of dowels in

blocks or heads. No porting, polishing or grinding ANYTIME, ANYWHERE on the heads or

intake or exhaust

manifold. Flat top or dished pistons ONLY! Aftermarket pulleys are allowed.

B. Engine location. Half way between first and second spark plug even with center of

front ball joint + or - 1/2".

C. Stock single-point or stock high-energy ignition systems only.

D. Carburetor: Any carburetor can be run except Predator.

E. CAM: Any stock-type flat tappet cam. Roller rocker arms allowed. NO ROLLER CAMS.

Individual roller rocker arms only no stud girdle.

F. Intake manifolds must be cast iron. Headers may be used, NO 180 degree headers, NO

headers that go over top of engine. NO HIGH RISE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

G. BATTERY may be relocated but must be securely mounted and covered with sheet

rubber. Must be able to start car AT ALL TIMES. Any starter in stock location may be

used.

H. Stock, deep, wet sump oil pan allowed. Relocated pickup tube allowed. Aftermarket oil

pan may be used.

I. Oil pan must have minimum one inch inspection hole in upper side of oil pan.

Now from looking at these rules, I dont see how in the hell you could get a $10,000 engine out of this.




dirtrack29&28
May 13, 2007 at 11:57:45 AM
Joined: 11/08/2006
Posts: 75
Reply

I'll get you a professional engine builder quote.


That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.

D_Waller
May 13, 2007 at 12:04:03 PM
Joined: 08/09/2005
Posts: 320
Reply

Well let me say this, back in the day when SFS had a Claimer Rule Johnny Reed was the only one who had the balls to claim a engine, and that is the words from him. The Factory Stock Rules at Brill are good rules and they are enforced, and we are several thousand dollars away from having a $10 grand motor, if you know what combos to work for horsepower & torque and to get the power to the ground, and to have a good setup in the car then you will be able to run up front, so I would suggest to do some homework and make what you have better but legal, talk to engine builders and ask questions, that is what I can suggest. Alot of great points have been made in this thread.


Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock 
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.


D_Waller
May 13, 2007 at 12:07:06 PM
Joined: 08/09/2005
Posts: 320
Reply

Rules on Engine From Brill

ENGINE:

  1. Must be stock and OEM V-8 cast iron block and same manufacturer as frame and body. GM is GM, Ford is Ford, etc. No modifications or alterations of any type, NO "performance engines or components", NO SVO, Bowtie, direct connection, or Mopar Performance Parts of any type. All engines and components must be stock and OEM. Block must match crank and rods. Maximum displacement to include wear and clearance is GM-368 Ford-368 Chrysler 368. GM engines must be based on a block assembly no larger than 350 ci. Screw-in replacements and guide plates are allowed. Polylock rocker arms adjusting nuts allowed. Head must remain in stock location. No moving or offsetting of dowels in blocks or heads. No porting, polishing or grinding ANYTIME, ANYWHERE on the heads. Flat top or dished pistons ONLY! Aftermarket pulleys are allowed. Any steel rod allowed. Bore and stroke must remain stock for type of engine.
  2. Engine location. First spark plug may be even with front ball joint, but not further back.
  3. CAM: Any stock-type flat tappet cam. Roller rocker arms allowed. NO ROLLER CAMS.
  4. Intake manifolds must be cast iron. Port or Polished is allowed. Headers may be used. NO HIGH RISE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
  5. Stock, deep, wet sump oil pan allowed. Relocated pickup tube allowed. Aftermarket oil pan may be used.
  6. After three (3) A-Feature wins bore and stroke will be checked.

Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock 
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.



dirtrack29&28
May 13, 2007 at 02:09:15 PM
Joined: 11/08/2006
Posts: 75
Reply

Yes, I have to agree with D_waller. I have done alot of checking at Brill's. He does check and enforce his rules. I also found that he does NOT play favorite. Now that is what make a great place to race. D_Waller you and your group keep doing what your doing. Congrad again. Wish I had your skills and knowledge.


That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.

D_Waller
May 13, 2007 at 04:36:22 PM
Joined: 08/09/2005
Posts: 320
Reply

Thank's DT 29 & 28, we always try to do our best, hope ya get them cars ready and come out and race again, good luck to you...


Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock 
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.


dirtrack29&28
May 13, 2007 at 08:05:20 PM
Joined: 11/08/2006
Posts: 75
Reply

Trying, The only thing holding us up is those $10,000 motors. Just a joke. they are costing us $15,000 a piece. Oops joking again. But for real, Granddaught's competetion cheer start next month. They won six of the seven national competitions last year. But, I am planning to test on tune the cars in late August early September.


That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.


Crazydeke
May 13, 2007 at 10:11:09 PM
Joined: 02/26/2006
Posts: 221
Reply

I'd like to see what builder would charge you for no modifications, stock block, no high-rise intake, no porting, polishing or grinding heads, flat tappet cams and no performance components. Now if someone is stupid enough to pay $10,000 for and engine like that, give them mine name and phone number and I'll pull the engine out of my suburban that meets that criteria!



doingdirt
May 14, 2007 at 07:08:48 AM
Joined: 04/27/2007
Posts: 30
Reply
This message was edited on May 14, 2007 at 07:36:35 AM by doingdirt

OK, here it is: The motor GM Crate Stock:

HT383E Performance Crate Engine 17800393


SKU: 17800393
RETAIL: $5,900.00
YOUR PRICE: $4,199.00

Now this motor has to be taken apart for the balance to be improved, The machining of the block it self to take off all the casting edges to improve the block strenght. The smoothing of the rod to incrrease the strenght. You know more RPM, the machining of the block to improve the oil flow, new harmonic balancer, you know to get more RPM out of the motor. The correct intake, And of course the acid work that need to be do to the intake. New better casket set. head work, Oh shipping and handling. Should I go on??



Crazydeke
May 14, 2007 at 09:03:24 AM
Joined: 02/26/2006
Posts: 221
Reply

Yeah, go to Smiley's and get a Jeff's Performance motor for less. around $3000. They're strong and reliable. My Modified motor with Dart Heads, Roller cam, Lightweight crank, balanced, ligned honed, decked cost only $6100.00. So go on and tell me please. You're still nowhere near $10,000. So you add $200-$300 for a real good balancer. Stock intake cant cost more the a couple hundred more. And since you're not allowed to grind, port or polished, PLEASE tell me how you get $10 grand?! Because the way I read the rule is NO alteration or modification of any engine part or component except pinning the studs.




doingdirt
May 14, 2007 at 10:23:26 AM
Joined: 04/27/2007
Posts: 30
Reply

NOT alteration or modification. You message the parts. The rule don't say anything about acid washing. So, you message the intake and heads. Your best lite piston and rod will push your engine to about $9000. plus. So you can go over 6500 rpm and stay up there. Oh, is your engine teflon coated? When you buy darts, don't you have your engine builder go through them for you to make sure they are good, and maybe put the better valve guide in. and of course your order your dart head with the best part in them right. I'm mean your want your heads to last more than one season. Yes I do agree with you that a good motor and a great setup will keep up and maybe out run a Bad fast motor and a ok set-up. Hey thanks for the information about a motor builder I need one. I'll check him out. But you know smiley is a great place to get your racing parts. They also work with with you pretty good. I know they have help me find the local place to get information. The photo looks as if you race at the SFS. I'll look you up if you don't mind. Maybe exchange information.



Crazydeke
May 14, 2007 at 11:54:37 AM
Joined: 02/26/2006
Posts: 221
Reply

Go to jeffsperformance.com. It will show you some of the things they got down there. Or better yet, call Jeff Autry at Smiley's. He has a real good working relationship with them. They give you a one race warranty and their service is outstanding. As for the other stuff, I see where you could get out of hand with the pricing. I just cant bring myself to believe that people would spend that much on a $200 to win race. I mean for a few grand more you could have yourself a very decent Late Model or a top tier modified.



doingdirt
May 14, 2007 at 12:30:05 PM
Joined: 04/27/2007
Posts: 30
Reply

AGREED




Glen Chapa
May 14, 2007 at 12:41:41 PM
Joined: 04/02/2007
Posts: 104
Reply

Get a stock set of double humps,machine for 2.02 valves,big springs guide plate,screw in studs and tell me the price. Then another $200-300 on new rod bolts,and recon stock rods,another 200-400 on work on a stock crank, than pistons,and those can get pricey, abd thats all legal stuff there. I can price up stuff at my engine builder (Mikes Machine) and come up with a cost of over $2500 in a LEGAL factory stock motor,and I can see how guys can spend more than $5,000 on one,now 10,000 thats alot,but guys do it,dunno were that money goes, dont care,but it goes somewere.



kristie
May 14, 2007 at 01:50:25 PM
Joined: 07/27/2005
Posts: 81
Reply

if i remember right dusty claimed a motor and then chris roach tried and got denied so johnny aint the only one and the rules do need changed u dang near have to sale ur soul to race a factory stock any more the racin this year has been a little rough but it has been close with a different winner every week so far dusty





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