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Topic: Engine claimer rule revisited.
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Page 3 of 4 of 64 replies
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May 07, 2007 at
09:31:15 AM
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07/23/2006
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180
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great win guys. man i guess that was good that u used ur car as show and tell. haha. Well i will see yall next week and enjoy the rain.
Dont get mad at me, im just the pushtruck guy.
www.myspace.com/pushtruckguy
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May 07, 2007 at
10:34:02 AM
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320
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Thank's Matt, well it is a rule after your 3rd win to be checked, by the way thank's for push starting my Mod a week ago when the we needed it, cya next week.
Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.
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May 07, 2007 at
11:06:44 AM
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Me too, glad to see. I guess when my car is finished I'll race at Brill's. I think I found me a new track to race at BRILL'S MOTOR SPEEDWAY. This really show Brill's is the true place to race.
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May 07, 2007 at
06:04:03 PM
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congrats
Danny and Johnny good job
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May 13, 2007 at
10:28:08 AM
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So, the engine claimer rule is not popular with some of you racers (people). What rule change is? There has to be some way to get the racing in factory stock back to racing. Back to the guy can't afford the bank to race, but can afford to inprove the race car over time. I don't mind the ford rear-end, mini-clutches, quick steer, tires, power steering, radiator. What I like to see is a change in the engine department. Carb, intake, vaccum, and distrubtor type are the best way to keep factory stocks a good close fun racing class. Plus the tech check would be easier. So, in my idea, it would not so much matter what a person puts in the bottom end of the motor. Then set-up would be the prime reason why the cars are fast. If you disagree, Then all I can say is you must be a $10,000 plus motor type person.
That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.
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May 13, 2007 at
11:21:24 AM
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This is the rule from SFS.
4.04: ENGINE
A. Must be stock and OEM V-8 cast iron block and same manufacturer as frame and body.
GM in GM, Ford in Ford, etc. No modifications or alterations of any type, No “performance
engines or components”, NO SVO, Bowtie, direct connection, Chevrolet vortex engines
or engine components or Mopar Performance parts of any type. All engines
and components must be stock and OEM. No polished rods, no floating wrist pins. Block
must match crank and rods. Maximum displacement to include wear and clearance is
GM-368 Ford-368 Chrysler-368. GM engines must be based on a block assembly no
larger than 350 ci. No modifications or alterations of any type except pinning the studs.
Screw-in replacements and guide plates are allowed. Polylock rocker arm adjusting nuts
allowed. Heads must remain in stock location. No moving or offsetting of dowels in
blocks or heads. No porting, polishing or grinding ANYTIME, ANYWHERE on the heads or
intake or exhaust
manifold. Flat top or dished pistons ONLY! Aftermarket pulleys are allowed.
B. Engine location. Half way between first and second spark plug even with center of
front ball joint + or - 1/2".
C. Stock single-point or stock high-energy ignition systems only.
D. Carburetor: Any carburetor can be run except Predator.
E. CAM: Any stock-type flat tappet cam. Roller rocker arms allowed. NO ROLLER CAMS.
Individual roller rocker arms only no stud girdle.
F. Intake manifolds must be cast iron. Headers may be used, NO 180 degree headers, NO
headers that go over top of engine. NO HIGH RISE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
G. BATTERY may be relocated but must be securely mounted and covered with sheet
rubber. Must be able to start car AT ALL TIMES. Any starter in stock location may be
used.
H. Stock, deep, wet sump oil pan allowed. Relocated pickup tube allowed. Aftermarket oil
pan may be used.
I. Oil pan must have minimum one inch inspection hole in upper side of oil pan.
Now from looking at these rules, I dont see how in the hell you could get a $10,000 engine out of this.
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May 13, 2007 at
11:57:45 AM
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I'll get you a professional engine builder quote.
That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.
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May 13, 2007 at
12:04:03 PM
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Well let me say this, back in the day when SFS had a Claimer Rule Johnny Reed was the only one who had the balls to claim a engine, and that is the words from him. The Factory Stock Rules at Brill are good rules and they are enforced, and we are several thousand dollars away from having a $10 grand motor, if you know what combos to work for horsepower & torque and to get the power to the ground, and to have a good setup in the car then you will be able to run up front, so I would suggest to do some homework and make what you have better but legal, talk to engine builders and ask questions, that is what I can suggest. Alot of great points have been made in this thread.
Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.
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May 13, 2007 at
12:07:06 PM
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Rules on Engine From Brill
ENGINE:
- Must be stock and OEM V-8 cast iron block and same manufacturer as frame and body. GM is GM, Ford is Ford, etc. No modifications or alterations of any type, NO "performance engines or components", NO SVO, Bowtie, direct connection, or Mopar Performance Parts of any type. All engines and components must be stock and OEM. Block must match crank and rods. Maximum displacement to include wear and clearance is GM-368 Ford-368 Chrysler 368. GM engines must be based on a block assembly no larger than 350 ci. Screw-in replacements and guide plates are allowed. Polylock rocker arms adjusting nuts allowed. Head must remain in stock location. No moving or offsetting of dowels in blocks or heads. No porting, polishing or grinding ANYTIME, ANYWHERE on the heads. Flat top or dished pistons ONLY! Aftermarket pulleys are allowed. Any steel rod allowed. Bore and stroke must remain stock for type of engine.
- Engine location. First spark plug may be even with front ball joint, but not further back.
- CAM: Any stock-type flat tappet cam. Roller rocker arms allowed. NO ROLLER CAMS.
- Intake manifolds must be cast iron. Port or Polished is allowed. Headers may be used. NO HIGH RISE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
- Stock, deep, wet sump oil pan allowed. Relocated pickup tube allowed. Aftermarket oil pan may be used.
- After three (3) A-Feature wins bore and stroke will be checked.
Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.
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May 13, 2007 at
02:09:15 PM
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Yes, I have to agree with D_waller. I have done alot of checking at Brill's. He does check and enforce his rules. I also found that he does NOT play favorite. Now that is what make a great place to race. D_Waller you and your group keep doing what your doing. Congrad again. Wish I had your skills and knowledge.
That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.
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May 13, 2007 at
04:36:22 PM
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Thank's DT 29 & 28, we always try to do our best, hope ya get them cars ready and come out and race again, good luck to you...
Danny Waller Jr.
Pro/Street Stock #1J
2006-2007-2009-2010-2011-2012 6 Time BMS Pro/Street Stock
Champion
4 Time BMS Fall Nationals Champion
2 Time BMS Spring Nationals Champion
Driver: Johnny Reed Jr.
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May 13, 2007 at
08:05:20 PM
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11/08/2006
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75
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Trying, The only thing holding us up is those $10,000 motors. Just a joke. they are costing us $15,000 a piece. Oops joking again. But for real, Granddaught's competetion cheer start next month. They won six of the seven national competitions last year. But, I am planning to test on tune the cars in late August early September.
That's my Opinion and I'm stick'en to it.
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May 13, 2007 at
10:11:09 PM
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02/26/2006
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I'd like to see what builder would charge you for no modifications, stock block, no high-rise intake, no porting, polishing or grinding heads, flat tappet cams and no performance components. Now if someone is stupid enough to pay $10,000 for and engine like that, give them mine name and phone number and I'll pull the engine out of my suburban that meets that criteria!
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May 14, 2007 at
07:08:48 AM
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This message was edited on
May 14, 2007 at
07:36:35 AM by doingdirt
OK, here it is: The motor GM Crate Stock:
HT383E Performance Crate Engine 17800393 SKU: 17800393
RETAIL: $5,900.00 YOUR PRICE: $4,199.00
Now this motor has to be taken apart for the balance to be improved, The machining of the block it self to take off all the casting edges to improve the block strenght. The smoothing of the rod to incrrease the strenght. You know more RPM, the machining of the block to improve the oil flow, new harmonic balancer, you know to get more RPM out of the motor. The correct intake, And of course the acid work that need to be do to the intake. New better casket set. head work, Oh shipping and handling. Should I go on??
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May 14, 2007 at
09:03:24 AM
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Yeah, go to Smiley's and get a Jeff's Performance motor for less. around $3000. They're strong and reliable. My Modified motor with Dart Heads, Roller cam, Lightweight crank, balanced, ligned honed, decked cost only $6100.00. So go on and tell me please. You're still nowhere near $10,000. So you add $200-$300 for a real good balancer. Stock intake cant cost more the a couple hundred more. And since you're not allowed to grind, port or polished, PLEASE tell me how you get $10 grand?! Because the way I read the rule is NO alteration or modification of any engine part or component except pinning the studs.
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May 14, 2007 at
10:23:26 AM
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NOT alteration or modification. You message the parts. The rule don't say anything about acid washing. So, you message the intake and heads. Your best lite piston and rod will push your engine to about $9000. plus. So you can go over 6500 rpm and stay up there. Oh, is your engine teflon coated? When you buy darts, don't you have your engine builder go through them for you to make sure they are good, and maybe put the better valve guide in. and of course your order your dart head with the best part in them right. I'm mean your want your heads to last more than one season. Yes I do agree with you that a good motor and a great setup will keep up and maybe out run a Bad fast motor and a ok set-up. Hey thanks for the information about a motor builder I need one. I'll check him out. But you know smiley is a great place to get your racing parts. They also work with with you pretty good. I know they have help me find the local place to get information. The photo looks as if you race at the SFS. I'll look you up if you don't mind. Maybe exchange information.
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May 14, 2007 at
11:54:37 AM
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Go to jeffsperformance.com. It will show you some of the things they got down there. Or better yet, call Jeff Autry at Smiley's. He has a real good working relationship with them. They give you a one race warranty and their service is outstanding. As for the other stuff, I see where you could get out of hand with the pricing. I just cant bring myself to believe that people would spend that much on a $200 to win race. I mean for a few grand more you could have yourself a very decent Late Model or a top tier modified.
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May 14, 2007 at
12:30:05 PM
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AGREED
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May 14, 2007 at
12:41:41 PM
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Get a stock set of double humps,machine for 2.02 valves,big springs guide plate,screw in studs and tell me the price. Then another $200-300 on new rod bolts,and recon stock rods,another 200-400 on work on a stock crank, than pistons,and those can get pricey, abd thats all legal stuff there. I can price up stuff at my engine builder (Mikes Machine) and come up with a cost of over $2500 in a LEGAL factory stock motor,and I can see how guys can spend more than $5,000 on one,now 10,000 thats alot,but guys do it,dunno were that money goes, dont care,but it goes somewere.
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May 14, 2007 at
01:50:25 PM
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if i remember right dusty claimed a motor and then chris roach tried and got denied so johnny aint the only one and the rules do need changed u dang near have to sale ur soul to race a factory stock any more the racin this year has been a little rough but it has been close with a different winner every week so far dusty
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