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Topic: Larson crashes hard at Knoxville Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 2 of 3   of  43 replies
Hawker
July 07, 2013 at 10:15:23 PM
Joined: 11/23/2004
Posts: 2809
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I've posted before on this....I work in aviation and we have splined assemblies on many different "safety of flight" systems. The design is fool proof to where they will NEVER come apart and has no additional parts that what is being used now. The torsion arm, bar, stop is a piss poor design that can EASILY be fixed.
Member of this message board since 1997

leadfoot23
July 07, 2013 at 10:24:19 PM
Joined: 06/19/2007
Posts: 445
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Reply to:
Posted By: dirtybeer on July 07 2013 at 08:44:35 PM

I have thought of a good way to cure this problem.My idea would call for a slight change by the bar manufacturers that shouldn't add much cost and add very little weight.Picture yourself looking at the hollow end of the bar,now picture an insert of metal welded inside the hollow end with a hole in the center of it tapped for a small bolt.You would now slide your stop onto the bar,then apply a washer that is slightly larger than the torsion tube and your bolt that goes thru the center of the bar,loctite the bolt if you want or use a small lockwasher under the head of the bolt.



Dirtybeer - in theory I like your thought. However, I don't think it would work for 2 reasons. 1. Torsion bars are hardened spring steel. Welding anything to a torsion bar will quickly break loose due to the properties of spring steel. The extreme heat caused by welding (if done after the hardening process) will cause the spring rate of the bar to be ruined. 2. Even if manufacturers hardened the bars after a tab was welded in place; torsion bars are hollow and designed to twist. As the bar twists, the diameter of the bar changes slightly. They also bend inside the torsion tube of the chassis (check out any used torsion bar and you'll see scuff marks where it rubs the inner wall of the chassis tube). This act of physics would cause anything welded inside the tube to break loose rather quickly.

What I believe is causing the problem is when the person installing the torsion bar doesn't leave adequate space between the stop and the chassis tube. When I raced, our rule of thumb was you should be able to put a nickel in between the stop and the chassis tube. Reason - as the torsion bar twists, the length of the bar will get shorter. The more it twists, the shorter the bar will become. If your crew chief doesn't compensate for this, the stop will have so much pressure against it, it can literally be pushed off the end of the bar. If that moment is when the car enters the corner all hell can break loose, as we've seen recently. It is this understanding of the way a torsion bar works that I attribute to our team never having a stop fall off in 15 years of driving sprints.

That said, fewer and fewer teams these days actually understand the physics of how a chassis works. More and more teams these days are simply "wallet racing" (deep I might add) and buy parts but don't really understand what they do or why they need to do certain things. For this reason, I agree a change needs to be made to prevent anyone else from losing a life or suffering a serious injury.

My personal favorite so far is to require torsion bar companies to build them just a bit longer (quarter inch or so), machine a snap-ring groove in the end and have pit stewards check for snap rings in the staging area before any car is allowed on the track. I also agree with the person who suggested doing away with aluminum stops. Although I have a feeling Larson and most top teams are utilizing titanium stops which are just as strong as steel, if not stronger.



racrguy
July 08, 2013 at 09:58:28 AM
Joined: 03/26/2009
Posts: 96
Reply

I'm not too keen on a snap ring because you'll need another tool to change bars. What they can do is lengthen the bar and drill it for a rue clip or something similar, no extra tools needed and I think they'd be more than strong enough to hold on a stop.




WIsprinter
July 08, 2013 at 10:02:24 AM
Joined: 12/26/2009
Posts: 392
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Reply to:
Posted By: linbob on July 07 2013 at 08:18:46 PM
Schroeder torsion bars have a snap ring at end of bars, Tom, the accutach guy has a new item to come out on market soon. He has about 8 cars testing them, no long rod and less weight, but long rods do a good job. I do not think you need something with a ton of force needed to get it off, just something to keep it from sliding off. Alum. stops not only can slide off, but they can break. I would say get rid of alum. TB stops. Front axel tethers would be easy. NASCAR uses the white nylon rope you get at hardware stores. For years the hood and trunk lids have had a tether on each side. This cost very little and weighs very little. Sure you could cut the whole front end off in a crash, but 95% off time you will not


I noticed KKR was using the snap rings on the end torsion bars. Must be using the Schroeder torsion bars.



TheProfessor5
MyWebsite
July 08, 2013 at 10:08:58 AM
Joined: 08/03/2009
Posts: 73
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: racrguy on July 08 2013 at 09:58:28 AM

I'm not too keen on a snap ring because you'll need another tool to change bars. What they can do is lengthen the bar and drill it for a rue clip or something similar, no extra tools needed and I think they'd be more than strong enough to hold on a stop.



Is the 10 total seconds it takes to put on and remove a snap ring and the extra second to grab the pliers worth a life? I am guessing the pi would take the same amount of time to put on and remove. If you can grab a screw driver you can grab the pliers.

buzz rightrear
July 08, 2013 at 05:02:10 PM
Joined: 09/12/2008
Posts: 2511
Reply
This message was edited on July 08, 2013 at 05:14:22 PM by buzz rightrear
Reply to:
Posted By: leadfoot23 on July 07 2013 at 10:24:19 PM

Dirtybeer - in theory I like your thought. However, I don't think it would work for 2 reasons. 1. Torsion bars are hardened spring steel. Welding anything to a torsion bar will quickly break loose due to the properties of spring steel. The extreme heat caused by welding (if done after the hardening process) will cause the spring rate of the bar to be ruined. 2. Even if manufacturers hardened the bars after a tab was welded in place; torsion bars are hollow and designed to twist. As the bar twists, the diameter of the bar changes slightly. They also bend inside the torsion tube of the chassis (check out any used torsion bar and you'll see scuff marks where it rubs the inner wall of the chassis tube). This act of physics would cause anything welded inside the tube to break loose rather quickly.

What I believe is causing the problem is when the person installing the torsion bar doesn't leave adequate space between the stop and the chassis tube. When I raced, our rule of thumb was you should be able to put a nickel in between the stop and the chassis tube. Reason - as the torsion bar twists, the length of the bar will get shorter. The more it twists, the shorter the bar will become. If your crew chief doesn't compensate for this, the stop will have so much pressure against it, it can literally be pushed off the end of the bar. If that moment is when the car enters the corner all hell can break loose, as we've seen recently. It is this understanding of the way a torsion bar works that I attribute to our team never having a stop fall off in 15 years of driving sprints.

That said, fewer and fewer teams these days actually understand the physics of how a chassis works. More and more teams these days are simply "wallet racing" (deep I might add) and buy parts but don't really understand what they do or why they need to do certain things. For this reason, I agree a change needs to be made to prevent anyone else from losing a life or suffering a serious injury.

My personal favorite so far is to require torsion bar companies to build them just a bit longer (quarter inch or so), machine a snap-ring groove in the end and have pit stewards check for snap rings in the staging area before any car is allowed on the track. I also agree with the person who suggested doing away with aluminum stops. Although I have a feeling Larson and most top teams are utilizing titanium stops which are just as strong as steel, if not stronger.



just my opinion.

you say the bar twist or wrap is pushing the stop off. well in my opinion the bar would have to shrink a heck of a lot to push the stop all the way off. even if you put the stop and the arm tight against the tube the bar twist should only push the arm or stop the small distance the bar shrinks, not push it all the way off. and why doesn't it push both the arm and the stop?

also most of the incidents i have heard of stops coming off are on the RF which gets the least bar wrap of all the bars on the car. if it is bar wrap that is pushing off stops, then why aren't LF and LR stops the ones coming off?

it has been said that the RF stop gets hammered off because it spends so much time unloaded and slaps around in the tube and eventually knocks the stop off.

also why does it seem like we are seeing more of this type of thing recently? i don't recall hearing much of this sort of thing happening years ago.

when we installed stops and arms we always made sure there was enough of a pinch gap in the arm or stop that it would securely clamp onto the bar before it bottomed out on itself. we always made sure there was still just a small pinch gap in the arm or stop when torqued down on the bar. we also always made sure we were not thread binding the clamp bolt.

we never have had a problem with a stop or arm coming off under normal use.

we also never used TI stops on the front that i remember.



to indy and beyond!!


Hannity
July 08, 2013 at 05:44:42 PM
Joined: 09/18/2009
Posts: 536
Reply

Both the 13 and the 1k know how to install a torsion bar/stop. I also think it's safe to say that they both use Ti stops. My guess is both teams utilize either the same stops and or the same bars.

I would like to hear from both teams... I would like to know what brand bar and what brand stop was in place when the accidents occurred.

I don't think this is an unfair request given the seriousness of this issue. I hope that the race teams have the courage to speak out!



derf
July 08, 2013 at 06:33:06 PM
Joined: 01/16/2009
Posts: 54
Reply

run coilover shoxs



Hannity
July 08, 2013 at 06:48:13 PM
Joined: 09/18/2009
Posts: 536
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: derf on July 08 2013 at 06:33:06 PM

run coilover shoxs



Either that or we could actually figure out why the stops are falling off...

 




leadfoot23
July 08, 2013 at 09:25:32 PM
Joined: 06/19/2007
Posts: 445
Reply
This message was edited on July 08, 2013 at 09:40:25 PM by leadfoot23
Reply to:
Posted By: buzz rightrear on July 08 2013 at 05:02:10 PM

just my opinion.

you say the bar twist or wrap is pushing the stop off. well in my opinion the bar would have to shrink a heck of a lot to push the stop all the way off. even if you put the stop and the arm tight against the tube the bar twist should only push the arm or stop the small distance the bar shrinks, not push it all the way off. and why doesn't it push both the arm and the stop?

also most of the incidents i have heard of stops coming off are on the RF which gets the least bar wrap of all the bars on the car. if it is bar wrap that is pushing off stops, then why aren't LF and LR stops the ones coming off?

it has been said that the RF stop gets hammered off because it spends so much time unloaded and slaps around in the tube and eventually knocks the stop off.

also why does it seem like we are seeing more of this type of thing recently? i don't recall hearing much of this sort of thing happening years ago.

when we installed stops and arms we always made sure there was enough of a pinch gap in the arm or stop that it would securely clamp onto the bar before it bottomed out on itself. we always made sure there was still just a small pinch gap in the arm or stop when torqued down on the bar. we also always made sure we were not thread binding the clamp bolt.

we never have had a problem with a stop or arm coming off under normal use.

we also never used TI stops on the front that i remember.




I appreciate your reply buzz, I like a healthy debate. I agree with what you said, just don't think I explained myself very well after reading it again.

I can't explain why the RF has gotten all the attention as the RF and LF can both have potential. RR and LR are almost always in a loaded state if the driver can remain on the throttle and smooth. As the car goes down the straight, weight is transferred to the rear, the front bars unload. However, depending on each cars setup, the amount it unloads can be different. Typically the RF shock will top out before the bar fully unloads (that's why the RF corner lifts off the ground at the end of the chute). Test this by having your largest friend stand on the LR corner hard enough to get the RF to raise in the air. Now try to lift the RF torsion arm off the axle. Trust me, there is pressure on that torsion stop and arm even though its up in the air.

Now if the driver has to quickly get off the throttle, the RF & LF bar goes from 'unloaded' to an extreme loaded state. Or, an ill handling car that is getting too hard on the right front from apex to exit of the corner can also be a culprit.

As for my theory of the arm being pushed off, I never meant to imply it was being pushed off in one fell swoop the full width of a stop. It is slowly getting tagged lap after lap. And once the stop begins to slip off the bar, every fraction of an inch it continues to get looser and looser. Over my 15 years driving sprints I recall several instances of stops AND arms falling off competitors cars. I don't recall if they were always the RF though.

Hell, maybe there's no merit at all to my opinion....I feel smarter though....I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last week.... Smile All kidding aside, someone with more brains than me should dig into this and figure it out before anyone else is hurt.



Hawker
July 08, 2013 at 10:07:01 PM
Joined: 11/23/2004
Posts: 2809
Reply
Seems like every driver has a GoPro now, why not monitor it?
Member of this message board since 1997

smokerudrinkplayeruget
July 08, 2013 at 10:13:36 PM
Joined: 12/05/2005
Posts: 301
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: Hawker on July 08 2013 at 10:07:01 PM
Seems like every driver has a GoPro now, why not monitor it?


An excellent suggestion....




Onthego
MyWebsite
July 09, 2013 at 01:58:09 AM
Joined: 06/24/2013
Posts: 2
Reply
Kenny Allen has come up with a outstanding idea and is using it in California . You drill a small hole in the already available slot in the stop and arms drilling thru the torsion bar and installing a clip.. It works . It is cheap and no weight . Get a pic from him it is a great fix..

flyingryan
July 09, 2013 at 07:48:25 AM
Joined: 11/30/2004
Posts: 67
Reply
I am unsure why the RF stop is currently the one we are hearing of falling off. In 2002 or 2003 I lost a LF stop at Knoxville in hot laps for 1200 LB Nationals which sent me left in a hurry over the berm and air born into the inside guard rail. We were running aluminum stops on the front like many were at the time. Over the years I kept trying aluminum stops in the front when someone comes out with the supposed better aluminum stop. However, we have seen that the splines get twisted out of the aluminum stops. We now run mostly titanium but being a budget team sometimes we fall back to using steel stops. A few years ago we were noticing stop movement with the old nickel width gap. We INCREASED THE GAP between the stop and the tube and have not had any issues with stop movement. As for why the stop falls off and not the arm, I am thinking the arm and torsion bar are pulling out of the stop truly because the adjuster bolt is holding the stop in place since it is jammed into the stop pad. At this point the most cost effective way to stop this is increasing the gap or using threaded rod with washers and nuts. I know seen where some people are worried about the threaded rod being a spear if that comes apart. Adding threads to the torsion bars will add a great deal of machining cost which will cause the price to go up quite a bit. I also wonder the affect on torsion spring rate of threading bolts into each end of the bar? The on-board camera idea is great and sure some may have done it already. As we try to figure out some stuff with our car, maybe we can get one of the cameras watching the front torsion bars. Just some more thoughts on this situation. It is nice to see most of the comments being conversational as multiple minds will come up with the best idea to help the situation.

aussie28
July 10, 2013 at 06:21:36 AM
Joined: 04/18/2013
Posts: 12
Reply

In aus Ti stops are banned on the front of the car, but people use them anyway, most use ally stops.

i've only ever herd of stops coming off brand new torsion bars, but thats over here.

We dont have the big 1/2 mile or high banking tracks either




dirtybeer
July 10, 2013 at 08:02:42 AM
Joined: 11/25/2005
Posts: 558
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: flyingryan on July 09 2013 at 07:48:25 AM
I am unsure why the RF stop is currently the one we are hearing of falling off. In 2002 or 2003 I lost a LF stop at Knoxville in hot laps for 1200 LB Nationals which sent me left in a hurry over the berm and air born into the inside guard rail. We were running aluminum stops on the front like many were at the time. Over the years I kept trying aluminum stops in the front when someone comes out with the supposed better aluminum stop. However, we have seen that the splines get twisted out of the aluminum stops. We now run mostly titanium but being a budget team sometimes we fall back to using steel stops. A few years ago we were noticing stop movement with the old nickel width gap. We INCREASED THE GAP between the stop and the tube and have not had any issues with stop movement. As for why the stop falls off and not the arm, I am thinking the arm and torsion bar are pulling out of the stop truly because the adjuster bolt is holding the stop in place since it is jammed into the stop pad. At this point the most cost effective way to stop this is increasing the gap or using threaded rod with washers and nuts. I know seen where some people are worried about the threaded rod being a spear if that comes apart. Adding threads to the torsion bars will add a great deal of machining cost which will cause the price to go up quite a bit. I also wonder the affect on torsion spring rate of threading bolts into each end of the bar? The on-board camera idea is great and sure some may have done it already. As we try to figure out some stuff with our car, maybe we can get one of the cameras watching the front torsion bars. Just some more thoughts on this situation. It is nice to see most of the comments being conversational as multiple minds will come up with the best idea to help the situation.


I don't believe it would effect the performance of the bar,as the twist should occur in the middle of the bar and not the ends.Whatever the best solution is,I hope it comes about soon.Like you,I also mentioned in the last discussion on this problem that it could well be happening from not enough end play being used and the bars pulling out of the stops.



Hannity
July 10, 2013 at 09:02:15 AM
Joined: 09/18/2009
Posts: 536
Reply
This message was edited on July 10, 2013 at 10:12:35 AM by Hannity

Guys and Gals,

The 13 and the 1k don't run worn out junk... they also understand how to properly install a trosion bar/stop.

The ideas for improvement are fine, but I wanna know what the f*^k is going on! There's a problem with either the bar and or the stop, or maybe both. I wanna know what it is, so we can stop destroying race cars.

I'm frustrated with the people in the know. I'm talking specifically about the teams and the manufacturers involved. I wish someone had the courage to speak out. Someone knows exactly what's happening and it's time to put a stop to the madness, the wrecked cars, the injuries, the ...



85
July 10, 2013 at 10:28:10 AM
Joined: 12/19/2004
Posts: 7
Reply

On the 13 car we use Schroeder bars and are in the process of getting some with a snap-ring groove. Also looking to tether the front axle with something like a drag link strap.




OLDSCHOOL5
July 10, 2013 at 11:09:22 AM
Joined: 07/10/2013
Posts: 11
Reply

Is it possible that the load that the bar is putting on the stop is trying to force the stop to open up at the split. If this happens it could loosen up the stop or arm due to working the splines or pulling on the threads on the bolt and nut. If anybody runs aluminum nuts still this would really streach the threads and cause the bolt to loosen. With the new shock packages that are being run ( hold downs ) there is a lot more pressure on the left front arm and stop. If the stop was to lossen even slightly it would work itself off of the bar due to the loading and unloading affect.



Hannity
July 10, 2013 at 11:16:36 AM
Joined: 09/18/2009
Posts: 536
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: 85 on July 10 2013 at 10:28:10 AM

On the 13 car we use Schroeder bars and are in the process of getting some with a snap-ring groove. Also looking to tether the front axle with something like a drag link strap.



85,

Thank you for sharing... I know your team has been through a lot!

What brand stops are you using? Are they aluminum or titanium? Any other insight into a possible cause?





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