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Forum: HoseHeads Sprint Car General Forum (go)
Moderators: dirtonly  /  dmantx  /  hosehead


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Topic: Avenger Chassis??? Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 2 of 2   of  34 replies
FASSTER23
November 20, 2010 at 07:51:15 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
Well I'm the proud new owner of a Sprint Car. I still have a long way to go but I'm pretty jacked. Still have to see about either raising the halo and moving the seat or finding a tall cage/big boy chassis to bolt everything onto and in the mean time learning a whole lot. One thing I'm going to have to do is move the fuel shut off to where I can reach it. Thanks to everyone for all the info and advice.

sprinter25
November 21, 2010 at 10:15:29 AM
Joined: 11/30/2004
Posts: 1973
Reply

Good luck and have fun!

You'll learn a bunch, and make a whole lot of friends...and you'll get a lot more help and advice than you'd ever imagine.....and most of it will be good!


Chuck.....

FASSTER23
November 22, 2010 at 03:20:00 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
I'm pretty lucky that I have an uncle who used to pit a Sprinter and a buddy who used to drive back in the 70's and 80's. Still have plenty to do but I'm excited. Thanks


dirtdevil
November 22, 2010 at 04:52:16 PM
Joined: 09/30/2005
Posts: 1387
Reply

when I was a rookie I located my fuel valve under the steering wheel, as a inexperianced driver I thought I might have a chance hitting it with my hand while frolicking around in the car (exciteable boy) the plumbing adds to the mess in the cockpit, but, who cares, thats what sprints are about (simple and to the point) besides, the fuel pump is right there also, its a fuel system nightmare compared to door cars , anyway it became habit and LRB makes a nice piece for this location , look you options over carefully for moving the seat too low will interfear with the touque tube and you dont want that experiance, the Halo add ons make for more complex exits if the wing is off perhaps, something to keep in mind but wieght the worse of two evils, goodluck youll have a blast , Oe, the pistons we ran in our mod years ago were KB hypernutecknic (sp) they worked fine in a 377ci 11:1 sbc IMCA claimer motor , we targeted 6800RPM with carburation, never had a prob just keep the RPM realistic and compression lower (tolerable) .. obviously forged is the way to go but there goes the added $$$..



FASSTER23
November 26, 2010 at 09:20:30 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
This message was edited on November 26, 2010 at 09:22:25 PM by FASSTER23
Reply to:
Posted By: dirtdevil on November 22 2010 at 04:52:16 PM

when I was a rookie I located my fuel valve under the steering wheel, as a inexperianced driver I thought I might have a chance hitting it with my hand while frolicking around in the car (exciteable boy) the plumbing adds to the mess in the cockpit, but, who cares, thats what sprints are about (simple and to the point) besides, the fuel pump is right there also, its a fuel system nightmare compared to door cars , anyway it became habit and LRB makes a nice piece for this location , look you options over carefully for moving the seat too low will interfear with the touque tube and you dont want that experiance, the Halo add ons make for more complex exits if the wing is off perhaps, something to keep in mind but wieght the worse of two evils, goodluck youll have a blast , Oe, the pistons we ran in our mod years ago were KB hypernutecknic (sp) they worked fine in a 377ci 11:1 sbc IMCA claimer motor , we targeted 6800RPM with carburation, never had a prob just keep the RPM realistic and compression lower (tolerable) .. obviously forged is the way to go but there goes the added $$$..



Well after several phone calls including a few with the local fab man I think I'm going to be better off finding a tall cage chassis and stripping this one. I was figuring I would end up having to do this anyways. For the money I paid I'm happy. Just trying to find what I need and trying to find a new owner for this Avenger frame. If anyone knows anyone please have em' give me a call. It's in the KCMO area. Thanks again to everyones help. 816-805-8237



dirtybeer
November 27, 2010 at 01:32:50 AM
Joined: 11/25/2005
Posts: 558
Reply

Good luck to you-where you plan on racing at?




darnall
November 27, 2010 at 12:10:24 PM
Joined: 09/02/2009
Posts: 454
Reply

I absolutely think finding a good used tall boy chassis is the way to go for you. One thing you may run into though...


I know some avengers had 29" torsion bars instead of 30". 99.99% of the cars you may buy will be 30" bar cars.


There is also a slight chance that the rear torsion arms on the Avenger may be different than a typical maxim or more common brand. Different length or bend. You may also find that the radius rods will be slightly different in length. Nerfs and bumpers may not be compatible as well.


If you can find a tall boy kit for a decent price that would be the way to go. It will have the torsion arms, fiberglass and sheet metal that fit and could very well have the radius rods and possibly even some torsion bars. Lots of time when people sell a used chassis kit they throw in more components than a new kit comes with and usually you can talk them in to throwing in some other nickel and dime stuff.


Actually taking on a project like this will be very good for you and your understanding of the car. You will have a much better idea of how to fix and maintain things if you have taken one apart and put one together. You will also have a better idea of what tools are must haves at the racetrack.


As for the 6 pin front end....don't worry about that at all. Slightly heavier but also slightly stronger than direct mount which may be good for a rookie. If you do change it over to direct mount you may be able to get away with just buying hubs. On most wheels you can pull the 6 pin center and 5 of the pinch bolts out and use on direct mount hubs as long as you get hubs with holes that the pinch bolt heads can recess into. Even if your spindles are the older long tapered snout there are direct mount hubs available to fit them.


Loose is when you hit the wall with the rear of the
car, tight is when you hit the wall with the front of
the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and
torque is how far you move the wall.

FASSTER23
November 27, 2010 at 05:42:55 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: darnall on November 27 2010 at 12:10:24 PM

I absolutely think finding a good used tall boy chassis is the way to go for you. One thing you may run into though...


I know some avengers had 29" torsion bars instead of 30". 99.99% of the cars you may buy will be 30" bar cars.


There is also a slight chance that the rear torsion arms on the Avenger may be different than a typical maxim or more common brand. Different length or bend. You may also find that the radius rods will be slightly different in length. Nerfs and bumpers may not be compatible as well.


If you can find a tall boy kit for a decent price that would be the way to go. It will have the torsion arms, fiberglass and sheet metal that fit and could very well have the radius rods and possibly even some torsion bars. Lots of time when people sell a used chassis kit they throw in more components than a new kit comes with and usually you can talk them in to throwing in some other nickel and dime stuff.


Actually taking on a project like this will be very good for you and your understanding of the car. You will have a much better idea of how to fix and maintain things if you have taken one apart and put one together. You will also have a better idea of what tools are must haves at the racetrack.


As for the 6 pin front end....don't worry about that at all. Slightly heavier but also slightly stronger than direct mount which may be good for a rookie. If you do change it over to direct mount you may be able to get away with just buying hubs. On most wheels you can pull the 6 pin center and 5 of the pinch bolts out and use on direct mount hubs as long as you get hubs with holes that the pinch bolt heads can recess into. Even if your spindles are the older long tapered snout there are direct mount hubs available to fit them.



Not 100% sure on the torsion bars and nerfs but the rear arms are Maxims, the front are Welds. The one thing I like about the cage on the Avenger is that it has safety bars on both sides which affords me more room for my long arms. The chassis is in great shape. It's a shame I can't use it. I need to sell it but I'm afraid to until I find a replacement. Does anyone know how to measure an axle to determine if it's a normal or long spline without removing the bird cages? Do you know how to determine rather or not birdcages are bent? I got a nice set of Sander billet birdcages with the car but don't know if they're any good. I also got several torsion bars but again don't know their history. I'm a little worried since they're not labeled as to which corners of the car it came off of. I know that most of these questions belong on the Tech threads but it doesn't seem like many people get on there to post or offer up advice. Well the only thing I do have right now is time. Thanks again.



FASSTER23
November 27, 2010 at 05:46:36 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: dirtybeer on November 27 2010 at 01:32:50 AM

Good luck to you-where you plan on racing at?



Well probably Valley in Grain Valley MO. I would like to go to LA in LaMonte MO some time but they don't allow the World Product heads that are on the car. Stock GM only. I would like to run it with the wing but currently only have 2-52" front ends. Sooo ya. We'll see how it all plays out.




427HISS
December 28, 2010 at 12:00:48 PM
Joined: 04/19/2007
Posts: 33
Reply
This message was edited on December 28, 2010 at 12:04:16 PM by 427HISS

More on the question. Will the Avenger frame accept suspension/steering parts from Maxim, XXX, Eagle ect. ?

Are most parts interchangeable between frame manufactures ?

Will a Maxim body fit on a Avenger frame ?

 



FASSTER23
December 28, 2010 at 04:06:32 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: 427HISS on December 28 2010 at 12:00:48 PM

More on the question. Will the Avenger frame accept suspension/steering parts from Maxim, XXX, Eagle ect. ?

Are most parts interchangeable between frame manufactures ?

Will a Maxim body fit on a Avenger frame ?

 



The suspension parts should all be interchangeable. Mine has 30" torsion bars which I believe is the standard now. Some Avengers might of used 29" bars. Mine has Weld arms in the front and Maxim Jacobs ladder and rear arms. As for the body someone else could probably answer that better. As long as the wheelbase and setbacks are the same you should be alright with most applications.

427HISS
December 28, 2010 at 04:23:06 PM
Joined: 04/19/2007
Posts: 33
Reply
This message was edited on December 28, 2010 at 04:25:14 PM by 427HISS

Great. Who do I speak with & do they have a website running ?

Like others said, I don't see one.

Thank you.




TimCrawleyRacing
December 28, 2010 at 04:27:03 PM
Joined: 08/31/2010
Posts: 2
Reply

I have won over 100 features in an Avenger and have definately crash tested them. Very well built chassis. Any questions, email [email protected].

Tim Crawley



427HISS
December 28, 2010 at 04:37:23 PM
Joined: 04/19/2007
Posts: 33
Reply

I've seen you race at Eagle Raceway several times and it's a pleasure watching you. Fast & clean.

Good luck & have fun at the Chili Bowl !



FASSTER23
December 28, 2010 at 06:03:52 PM
Joined: 09/01/2010
Posts: 111
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: 427HISS on December 28 2010 at 04:23:06 PM

Great. Who do I speak with & do they have a website running ?

Like others said, I don't see one.

Thank you.



I've called them about the chassis I have they didn't have a website the last time I spoke to them. Nice people. They're from Texas. El Paso I believe. Their number is (915) 857-2899. If you know anyone I have a 2002 86/40 chassis I'm selling. Cheap. Clean and straight. I'll sell it with or without the body, motor plate, etc. [email protected]



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