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Forum: HoseHeads Sprint Car General Forum (go)
Moderators: filtalr  /  hosehead


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Topic: Centering a rear end help Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 1 of 1   of  13 replies
sprintkarkid28
September 19, 2013 at 04:16:12 PM
Joined: 01/26/2013
Posts: 6
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This message was edited on September 19, 2013 at 04:57:49 PM by sprintkarkid28

I have tried two different ways to center my rear end (measuring from the machined back of the torque tube to the frame rails and lining up a centered bolt on the rear end cover to the center torsion tube gusset) and I get different results with each method.  Is there something wrong?  Which one is more accurate?  Visually, it looks like the driveline is straighter when I measure from the torque tube to the frame rails but then the centered rear end cover bolt is roughly an inch away from being centered on the gusset.  Thanks in advance!




Twenty8
September 19, 2013 at 04:39:17 PM
Joined: 12/03/2004
Posts: 1317
Reply


What brand and year is the chassis ?



sprintkarkid28
September 19, 2013 at 04:44:23 PM
Joined: 01/26/2013
Posts: 6
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: Twenty8 on September 19 2013 at 04:39:17 PM


What brand and year is the chassis ?



2008 Maxim 87/40 



brettco
September 19, 2013 at 04:48:17 PM
Joined: 12/03/2004
Posts: 493
Reply

Slide the torque ball back on the tube and push it into the receiver/ it should be perfectly centered



jahmo55
September 19, 2013 at 05:00:52 PM
Joined: 01/03/2005
Posts: 61
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: sprintkarkid28 on September 19 2013 at 04:16:12 PM

I have tried two different ways to center my rear end (measuring from the machined back of the torque tube to the frame rails and lining up a centered bolt on the rear end cover to the center torsion tube gusset) and I get different results with each method.  Is there something wrong?  Which one is more accurate?  Visually, it looks like the driveline is straighter when I measure from the torque tube to the frame rails but then the centered rear end cover bolt is roughly an inch away from being centered on the gusset.  Thanks in advance!




Is it possible your chassis has been tweaked a bit and the rear Torsion tubes are bent to one side?

 



Fuelstick
September 19, 2013 at 05:44:34 PM
Joined: 09/24/2011
Posts: 194
Reply

Are  you talking about the gusset between the tubes that hold the torque tubes together? if so,u will find that gusset is not in the center of the chassis anyway,well they generally aren't. Just center it from the machined part of the torque tube,or the flange,as it's called. That measurement is usually between 10 & 3/8 of an inch to 10 & 1/4 of an inch. If its not, undo the torque tube from the rear end & spin it 180 deg & bolt it up,if its out the othway way now,the torque tube is bent,if its still out the same way,the rear end snout (where the torque tube bolts to the rear end) is bent,the snouts will tweak in a crash sometimes.



Fuelstick
September 19, 2013 at 05:53:43 PM
Joined: 09/24/2011
Posts: 194
Reply

If you want to double check the chassis just to make sure,u can pick 2 points at the engine plate,generally the top left & top right corner of the engine plate,& measure diagonally to where back torsion bar tubes are welded to the chassis (the inside corner of it) should be roughly the same measurement both sides,this wilsquare the chassis is square in the rear,& not tweaked. But if it was a whole inch out,u would definantly be able to see it by eye & not even have to measure,so I doubt it is



THahn
September 19, 2013 at 06:10:58 PM
Joined: 12/08/2004
Posts: 41
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: sprintkarkid28 on September 19 2013 at 04:16:12 PM

I have tried two different ways to center my rear end (measuring from the machined back of the torque tube to the frame rails and lining up a centered bolt on the rear end cover to the center torsion tube gusset) and I get different results with each method.  Is there something wrong?  Which one is more accurate?  Visually, it looks like the driveline is straighter when I measure from the torque tube to the frame rails but then the centered rear end cover bolt is roughly an inch away from being centered on the gusset.  Thanks in advance!



Go to Maxim website they have a tech sheet to walk you through it.  www.racemaxims.com/pdfs2/squaringtheaxles.pdf

 



mongooseman
September 19, 2013 at 08:31:03 PM
Joined: 02/25/2008
Posts: 52
Reply

One problem I have when squaring a rear is the the blocks moving/falling thus causing the rear to do the same.  

 

Do you guys have that problem?  What is your fix for it???

 

Thanks guys



ksprinter
September 19, 2013 at 09:38:02 PM
Joined: 08/13/2005
Posts: 59
Reply


Make a set of blocks out of 4x4 wood

 



BTxpress
September 19, 2013 at 11:03:34 PM
Joined: 08/28/2011
Posts: 9
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: mongooseman on September 19 2013 at 08:31:03 PM

One problem I have when squaring a rear is the the blocks moving/falling thus causing the rear to do the same.  

 

Do you guys have that problem?  What is your fix for it???

 

Thanks guys



Tru-Square rear end squaring tool is simply the fastest & easiest tool to square the rear end. It doesn't matter what size block you use, Tru-Square will not allow the block to fall. It's a 1 person job.

http://www.speedmartinc.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=2211



meatbag
September 20, 2013 at 04:01:22 AM
Joined: 07/10/2007
Posts: 947
Reply

 To make it simple for you just measure from motor plate to axle and get them equal on both sides.  Your rearend is securely bolted to a pivotal torque ball which means if you are even from both sides of the axle to the plate, you should be centered as well!

If your rearend is 3 inches to the right with your torque tube securely bolted up tight from the face of your rearend to the motor plate, then I guarantee you your right side measurement is shorter than your left side measurement.

Cut a "T" out of a piece of paper and tack it to a wall upside down so the bottom is level.  Draw a straight line across the top parallel with the bottom of the "T".  Your measurements are the same from side to side.  Now rotate the "T" either direction and remeasure!  Now they're not!  Hope this makes sense.

 


do it in the dirt

HoosierLr
September 20, 2013 at 09:36:27 AM
Joined: 05/27/2007
Posts: 2
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: mongooseman on September 19 2013 at 08:31:03 PM

One problem I have when squaring a rear is the the blocks moving/falling thus causing the rear to do the same.  

 

Do you guys have that problem?  What is your fix for it???

 

Thanks guys



What we do sometimes to prevent this

 

1. Purchase the magnet setup ( moose ) blocks with the cradels. Saves on scratching the axels as well as it helps you roll the rear end.

 

2. Take your wooden blocks ( 4 x 6 ).. Make sure your on 6 in blocks obviously.   Then take Bungee cords and wrap under your axels and then hook them to somthing above. We use the Right side zeuce button hole. Cut the bungee so it fits perfeclty and not picking up the rear end but just touches so it will hold it in place if your blocks fall out.

 

 



Racenutz
September 20, 2013 at 12:46:53 PM
Joined: 11/30/2011
Posts: 4
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: HoosierLr on September 20 2013 at 09:36:27 AM

What we do sometimes to prevent this

 

1. Purchase the magnet setup ( moose ) blocks with the cradels. Saves on scratching the axels as well as it helps you roll the rear end.

 

2. Take your wooden blocks ( 4 x 6 ).. Make sure your on 6 in blocks obviously.   Then take Bungee cords and wrap under your axels and then hook them to somthing above. We use the Right side zeuce button hole. Cut the bungee so it fits perfeclty and not picking up the rear end but just touches so it will hold it in place if your blocks fall out.

 

 




Tru-Square will solve all the problems mentioned in this blog (squaring, centering and falling off the blocks). It only take a minute or so to attach the Tru Square tools, once they are installed the rear end is moved into postion (square,centered) by the tools.  It is quick and precise and it will not fall of the blocks or get knocked out of square if you bump the car or rear end.  The other good thing about using Tru-Square is, if you are concerned about you chassis being bent you can move the rear end where you what it and take all the measurements you want knowing that the rear end has not moved from on measurement to the other.  Before I bought Tru Square I would being taking measurements to center/square my rear end only to find out that each time I put the measuring tape on it I was moving the rear end slightly and therefore my measurements were not correct or consistent.





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