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Topic: stinger chassis Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 1 of 1   of  4 replies
doyledidion
December 23, 2009 at 11:38:40 AM
Joined: 03/21/2008
Posts: 15
Reply

i have a 2007 stinger chassi and im looking for set up tips coil front with sway bar and tortion rear ....what is the blocking size for the rear ?? what size sway bar tortion bar?? what kind of bird cages do you run ?what kind of front shocks do you run? and stuff lick that????


rubings racing


K_Kierce
December 23, 2009 at 01:38:34 PM
Joined: 12/06/2004
Posts: 286
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: doyledidion on December 23 2009 at 11:38:40 AM

i have a 2007 stinger chassi and im looking for set up tips coil front with sway bar and tortion rear ....what is the blocking size for the rear ?? what size sway bar tortion bar?? what kind of bird cages do you run ?what kind of front shocks do you run? and stuff lick that????



That all depends on where your running the car, 360? 410? tire? track conditions etc



doyledidion
December 23, 2009 at 08:51:28 PM
Joined: 03/21/2008
Posts: 15
Reply
This message was edited on December 23, 2009 at 08:54:10 PM by doyledidion

antioch speedway northern cal.. med to high banked heavy clay to dry slick depends on time of year.. open tire left rear.. spec right rear med to hard compound hoosier ..my rear bar lenths are right rear 27" left rear 26" arm lenths standerd 15-17 just need base set up


rubings racing

RichCee
December 24, 2009 at 11:08:41 AM
Joined: 01/17/2007
Posts: 276
Reply

Never worked on a stinger coil car so can't give you specifics but can give a ballpark idea of where I'd start.

1000s across the rear, 300 RF, 225 LF, 725 swaybar Since your avatar is a gocart my guess is that you are starting out so I'll keep the shocks simple. 7500 LF, 7530 RF, 9500 RR, 9311 LR. Go to a stiffer swaybar and soften the right front shock on extension as the track slicks off. Because of the somewhat short bar lengths you might have to play around a bit to find something you like. If your constantly fighting pushy tight in the middle of the turn go to a softer bar in the LR. These suggested spring rates are probably a little high but it's safer to be high on rate rather than soft.

I assume the rear rack is a standard type height so you'll be looking to have the right rear height about 12 1/2" to the split in the torsion arm with the arm level and about 11" on the left rear. I'd guess a 4" block would get you in that area. I can't really give you a height on the front because the sway bar rack heights vary. You'll want rake in the car so that the front is higher than the rear. A wild,wild guess would be 2 1/2" blocks in the front. You may need to take turns out of either the left rear or left front to get heights and crossweight in the ballpark you want. It's not likely that you can run it straight off the blocks. Some coil cars needed as much as 6 turns out of the LF and others needed none in the front and only a half turn out of the LR.

If you are making notes of your setups (and you should) note that torsion bars take a set so if you come up with a set up for your car with brand spanking new bars go out and run it, then next time you set it up using just blocks and counting the turns you put in/took out you will find your heights are all screwed up.

Just remember this isn't an F1 car, it's a non-wing sprint car on dirt. A setup that is close enough for government work will work out okay most of the time, particularly when you are starting out. Focus on driving consistency rather than spending all your track time f-ing with car setups. Do what it takes to get comfortable and the speed will come. There's a guy who runs a school in Ventura. He's got school cars that are coil front/torsion rear. Sign up for one of his classes if only to find out what a good car is supposed to feel like and go from there.



Fuelman
December 24, 2009 at 12:27:10 PM
Joined: 05/28/2007
Posts: 163
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: RichCee on December 24 2009 at 11:08:41 AM

Never worked on a stinger coil car so can't give you specifics but can give a ballpark idea of where I'd start.

1000s across the rear, 300 RF, 225 LF, 725 swaybar Since your avatar is a gocart my guess is that you are starting out so I'll keep the shocks simple. 7500 LF, 7530 RF, 9500 RR, 9311 LR. Go to a stiffer swaybar and soften the right front shock on extension as the track slicks off. Because of the somewhat short bar lengths you might have to play around a bit to find something you like. If your constantly fighting pushy tight in the middle of the turn go to a softer bar in the LR. These suggested spring rates are probably a little high but it's safer to be high on rate rather than soft.

I assume the rear rack is a standard type height so you'll be looking to have the right rear height about 12 1/2" to the split in the torsion arm with the arm level and about 11" on the left rear. I'd guess a 4" block would get you in that area. I can't really give you a height on the front because the sway bar rack heights vary. You'll want rake in the car so that the front is higher than the rear. A wild,wild guess would be 2 1/2" blocks in the front. You may need to take turns out of either the left rear or left front to get heights and crossweight in the ballpark you want. It's not likely that you can run it straight off the blocks. Some coil cars needed as much as 6 turns out of the LF and others needed none in the front and only a half turn out of the LR.

If you are making notes of your setups (and you should) note that torsion bars take a set so if you come up with a set up for your car with brand spanking new bars go out and run it, then next time you set it up using just blocks and counting the turns you put in/took out you will find your heights are all screwed up.

Just remember this isn't an F1 car, it's a non-wing sprint car on dirt. A setup that is close enough for government work will work out okay most of the time, particularly when you are starting out. Focus on driving consistency rather than spending all your track time f-ing with car setups. Do what it takes to get comfortable and the speed will come. There's a guy who runs a school in Ventura. He's got school cars that are coil front/torsion rear. Sign up for one of his classes if only to find out what a good car is supposed to feel like and go from there.



Hey Chess,Happy Holidays and I'll see you at the HB pier on New Years Day at 0900.





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