HoseHeads.com | HoseHeads Classifieds | Racer's Auction
Home | Register | Contact | Verify Email | FAQ |
Blogs | Photo Gallery | Press Release | Results | HoseheadsClassifieds.com


Welcome Guest. Already registered? Please Login

 

Forum: HoseHeads Sprint Car General Forum (go)
Moderators: dirtonly  /  dmantx  /  hosehead


Records per page
 
Topic: soft brake pedal Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
Page 1 of 2   of  20 replies
J1STIG
September 11, 2013 at 12:52:10 PM
Joined: 09/11/2013
Posts: 4
Reply

i gotta guestion bout sprint car brakes....we have no pedal we have replaced the master cylinder..residual valve..front and rear calipers and we still have a soft pedal what would be ur suggestion?




sprntcar7
September 11, 2013 at 01:22:06 PM
Joined: 12/13/2008
Posts: 219
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: J1STIG on September 11 2013 at 12:52:10 PM

i gotta guestion bout sprint car brakes....we have no pedal we have replaced the master cylinder..residual valve..front and rear calipers and we still have a soft pedal what would be ur suggestion?



Bleed them better



J1STIG
September 11, 2013 at 01:26:42 PM
Joined: 09/11/2013
Posts: 4
Reply

the first pump we get air than it all fluid on both front and rears 




Jack Black
September 11, 2013 at 01:30:25 PM
Joined: 11/20/2006
Posts: 297
Reply


prolly still air in lines. only pump pedal once then bleed again. sometimes if you leave it set a couple hours then bleed again.



J1STIG
September 11, 2013 at 01:32:56 PM
Joined: 09/11/2013
Posts: 4
Reply

ill give that a shot

 



darbo42
September 11, 2013 at 01:33:47 PM
Joined: 12/04/2004
Posts: 932
Reply

I usually start farthest away from the cylinder and work your way closer to it.  Pump and bleed one time around and then once again.  You just might have a leak somewhere.  Start all over and check all your connections.  I know it's frustrating but then you find out it is many times the simplest thing you can imagine.  Good luck. 


My wife told me if I went to one more Sprint Car race 
she would leave me.................I'm sure gonna miss 
that ol' gal. 


brettco
September 11, 2013 at 01:46:05 PM
Joined: 12/03/2004
Posts: 517
Reply

Lots of front brake mounts don't leave the front bleeders at 12oclock.



J1STIG
September 11, 2013 at 01:47:25 PM
Joined: 09/11/2013
Posts: 4
Reply

the fronts are at 12

 



wingerdinger
September 11, 2013 at 01:57:53 PM
Joined: 07/20/2012
Posts: 74
Reply

id go through the whole system. disconnect all lines and spray brake clean and air through all lines. I had the same problem. bled all calipers and replaced the master cylinders. Turns out there was a little pice of teflon tape in the steel line. Once we blew that out my brakes were as stong a hurcules!




wingerdinger
September 11, 2013 at 02:01:16 PM
Joined: 07/20/2012
Posts: 74
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: J1STIG on September 11 2013 at 01:47:25 PM

the fronts are at 12

 




also with the front caliper you might want to try taking it off the mount, and hold it higher than the master cylinder to help air to the bleeder. just make sure you have something in there to keep the pistons from moving like another rotor or something around the same thickness as the rotor



mbmotorspt
September 11, 2013 at 02:22:45 PM
Joined: 12/09/2004
Posts: 339
Reply
Bleeding Sprint Car brakes.
 
If you have a spongy brake pedal without rolling the car anywhere you probably have air in the lines.
 
How to bleed brakes.
 
1.) Get a piece of clear 1/8" flexible rubber tubing that will stay on the end of the bleeder.  Have a partial container of brake fluid with the other end of the hose submerged.
 
2.) Loosen the master cylinder cap.  This will help from the rubber in the cap sucking any air back through the lines.
 
3.) Make sure your M/C is full of fluid.
 
This is a two person process.
 
4.)  Go to the LF caliper first.  Tap it with a rubber mallet several times to get any air bubbles to the top of the caliper.  Hook your hose up.  Break the bleeder loose.  Push the brake pedal all the way to the fire wall.  Close the bleeder.  Release the brake pedal.  Repeat 3-4 times or until you have solid fluid in the hose with no air.
 
Check fluid level.
 
Go to the LR/RR and repeat step 4.
 
Check fluid level.
 
Go to the inboard and repeat step 4.
 
Check fluid level.
Tighten cap.
Double check all bleeders to make sure they are tight.
 
Now, within one or two pumps your pedal should be firm.  If it is not, you probably have a dished rotor or bent caliper bracket.
 
The trick is to displace the air from the system.  Pumping the pedal while bleeding only traps air - not displace it.
 
MB

Rome wasn't built in a day......but they sure didn't
waste any time burning it down!

21wforacer
September 11, 2013 at 03:01:42 PM
Joined: 10/17/2010
Posts: 493
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: J1STIG on September 11 2013 at 12:52:10 PM

i gotta guestion bout sprint car brakes....we have no pedal we have replaced the master cylinder..residual valve..front and rear calipers and we still have a soft pedal what would be ur suggestion?



Are you running hard lines to the corners then running steel braided off those to the calipers ? 

 

And what bore M/C are you using?


I don't aim to please.
I aim to hit the target.


ddca4
September 11, 2013 at 04:59:39 PM
Joined: 12/02/2004
Posts: 75
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: J1STIG on September 11 2013 at 12:52:10 PM

i gotta guestion bout sprint car brakes....we have no pedal we have replaced the master cylinder..residual valve..front and rear calipers and we still have a soft pedal what would be ur suggestion?



bleed the master cylinder.



dirtdevil
September 11, 2013 at 05:50:21 PM
Joined: 09/30/2005
Posts: 1387
Reply

had the same problem we had brakes but really nothing to brag about, finally i removed the residual valve completly, im a firm believer any small piece of debris in this spot killed our efforts to make the sysetem work as it should, in the off season i had a short visit with Wolfgang about my brakeing woes (pardon the pun), he recomended  honing the M/C even if it was a new jobber, we went to a larger m/c that could handel much more volume, I strongly recomend the LF steel rotor I use the "holy Crap pads from Krietz. this turns the car tremendously  when your stagger is less than preffered. keep them "new" they fade lightly after real abusive use, I proubly use mine too much!.  since the chat with Wolfie he got us in the ballpark with a little fine tuning to driver prefferance we have awsome brakes now.



dirtdevil
September 11, 2013 at 05:53:23 PM
Joined: 09/30/2005
Posts: 1387
Reply


also, ive always run the car , heavy vibrations that are much more than a few taps to the chassis free's up the air clinging to the walls of your lines, (think of it as a can of soda) we have almost always caught a few stragglers after the car was warmed and rechecked the system again.




meatbag
September 11, 2013 at 06:26:57 PM
Joined: 07/10/2007
Posts: 947
Reply

I'm just impressed that there is a thread on Hoseheads that everyone is being helpful with and not arguing about something!


do it in the dirt

formula-uuhh
September 12, 2013 at 12:09:00 AM
Joined: 09/11/2013
Posts: 157
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: J1STIG on September 11 2013 at 12:52:10 PM

i gotta guestion bout sprint car brakes....we have no pedal we have replaced the master cylinder..residual valve..front and rear calipers and we still have a soft pedal what would be ur suggestion?



take the lines off  . blow em out . clean  everthing up. prolly  just  debris or sumthin stupid like that  



CBGarage
MyWebsite
September 12, 2013 at 08:48:03 AM
Joined: 08/25/2008
Posts: 80
Reply

We are having the opposite issue at the moment.  Pedal is good and firm but the brakes don't stop the car very well.  Sitting in the shop, everything feels great, feels like everything is grabbing, once you're on the brakes you cannot budge the car.  But once on the track, the car slows down tremendously when applying the breaks but nothing that will lock up the tires.  Everything was brand new 12 races ago, calipers, rotors, lines, fitting, master cylinder, everything.  Car has not been in any crashes, no lines have been taken apart, nothing.  Any suggestions? Maybe pads glazed over or something like that?




goinrcn44h
MyWebsite
September 12, 2013 at 09:20:21 AM
Joined: 12/01/2004
Posts: 55
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: CBGarage on September 12 2013 at 08:48:03 AM

We are having the opposite issue at the moment.  Pedal is good and firm but the brakes don't stop the car very well.  Sitting in the shop, everything feels great, feels like everything is grabbing, once you're on the brakes you cannot budge the car.  But once on the track, the car slows down tremendously when applying the breaks but nothing that will lock up the tires.  Everything was brand new 12 races ago, calipers, rotors, lines, fitting, master cylinder, everything.  Car has not been in any crashes, no lines have been taken apart, nothing.  Any suggestions? Maybe pads glazed over or something like that?



Sounds like your pads are glazed over.  Take off and sand or file or however you like the hard shiny surface of the pads.  I set them on smooth concrete and slide across the floor will even work.  Make sure no oil like MUD off or whatever you use has soaked in as well. 

 



oldtimer8
September 12, 2013 at 09:58:06 AM
Joined: 02/06/2012
Posts: 26
Reply

Bent rotor or the caliper is not square to the rotor. Most likely the left front mounts flex when the pedal is pressed and then flex when pressure is released and pulls the pads away from the rotor.Take the calipers off the car and put some inbetween the pads to test.





Post Reply
You must be logged in to Post a Message.
Not a member register Here.
Already registered? Please Login





If you have a website and would like to set up a forum here at HoseHeadForums.com
please contact us by using the contact link at the top of the page.

© 2024 HoseHeadForums.com Privacy Policy