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Topic: Dry slick help please!!
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Page 1 of 1 of 16 replies
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March 21, 2013 at
11:08:08 PM
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03/21/2013
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I am a low buck Guy. I have been running for 8 yrs now. I have 87/40 eagle 1' raised rail chassis. I just can't seem to get this chassis tight enough. On entry and mid corner. I move lr out 14 3/4 RR all the way against radius rod. Easy ups on front tie downs on rear. 4/7 lr 4/6.5 RR dropped rear height raised front, loaded one complete turn in lf arm after raising it. That actually helped alot. But not enough. Lr radius rod up a notch. I'm having a prob on the small 1/4 and 3/8 dry slick tight corner tracks. Car has pretty good forward bite but losing a ton of time on corner entry. Oh running 1000's on the left and 1025's on the right. Car works decent on bigger banked tracks normally. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. I've about had it with this chassis. I see other people running them and doing well with them. Thanks
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March 22, 2013 at
12:07:28 AM
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02/25/2012
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322
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Maybe try an inch bar in RR with a turn in it, and you don't have RR in so far it would be hitting the radius rod causing it to unload?
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March 22, 2013 at
02:11:53 AM
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11/25/2005
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558
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I would put a 4-6 on lr and a straight 5 on rr.
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March 22, 2013 at
09:06:09 AM
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03/21/2013
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I am keeping it off the radius rod. Sometimes it does get a scuff mark on it after I come in but it's not riding on it. About a two finger widths from touching it.
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March 22, 2013 at
09:28:16 AM
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12/03/2004
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517
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This message was edited on
March 22, 2013 at
09:34:50 AM by brettco
Too tight and shaking it loose. There's really no way to help without some video imo. From the start of the night to the finish should only take/ wing/stagger/airpressure and 1-2shocks changes.
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March 22, 2013 at
10:03:07 AM
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03/22/2013
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Sounds like you may have the car too tight in actuality. Wouldnt be a bad idea to have your shocks dynoed.
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March 22, 2013 at
10:14:31 AM
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09/27/2009
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How much air pressure in RR and do you have a bleeder valve?
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March 22, 2013 at
10:25:29 AM
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10/15/2007
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102
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I think a couple of the guys are right. You may have it too tight already and you are trying to break the car loose on entry & mid-corner. Try something like this.
Shocks
LF- 754 RF- 750
LR- 946 RR- 950
Bars
LF- 1025 RF- 1025
LR- 1025 RR- 1000
Try using a little less spacing in on the RR. Use a 6" or 7" offset on your right rear wheel to help tighten the car but don't move the RR in so close to the radius rod. Softening (ride height & car angle)the right rear will also help.
Depending on your driving style you can also use gearing to help you. On a tight cornered smaller track a lot of drivers like to use more gear to help slow the car on corner entry without having to get completely off the gas on entry. You have be very good with throttle control to get off the corners without buzzing the rear tires though.
It's important to keep your speed up on corner entry and then let the car rotate through the mid-point of the corner and then the ability to accelerate on exit. When it comes to wing angle, only you know what's comfortable at the tracks you run at but I would use wing angle more than making tons of other changes. Sometimes you can change so many things that you don't know what's working or not working.
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March 22, 2013 at
10:55:32 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. This is what I I feel as I'm entering corner. The car set ups and wings down with very little input on the wheel. From there the car seems to want to keep coming around. So I back up my speed on entry thinking I'm over driving the entry. Then the seems to want to just skate up the track. I am lacking side bite horribly. Adding wing and moving back does help but not enough to keep my speed up thru corners. I do like a lot of gear so it slows car down instead of using brakes so much. In all honesty I am baffled as to why it won't work. I am going to try changing bars to 1025's everywhere and 1000 in RR and raising the ride height. Been blocking at 3 1/2 4 1/2 in rear. Thinking its to low and not transferring enough weight. When I had to use good years I ran 6- 6 1/2 in RR. I run nitrogen in rear tires so the air pressure doesn't Change. Hoosiers I run around 6 1/2-7 when dry.
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March 22, 2013 at
10:57:17 AM
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Oh travel on the RR shock is only about 2" normally. I run a boot on lr to keep it from unloading RR to much.
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March 22, 2013 at
11:37:21 AM
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03/22/2013
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how much travel do you have in the LR? What type of "bump" are you running? Your car is too low in the back which is hindering your sidebite.
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March 22, 2013 at
01:51:40 PM
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I wouldn't go changing a bunch of stuff all at once.I think the bars on your car are fine.Start out with the shock changes and go from there.5rf,4-6lr,5rr.If you have screwed a bunch into your rf bar get it out,and start with a 1/4 turn.Always keep some throttle in it, don't jump off the loudpedal on entry,ease back on the throttle but choke it down with your brakes.You don't need that much air in your rr either.Good luck to you.
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March 22, 2013 at
01:53:48 PM
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I just sent you an email. Give me a call and I'll walk you thru a setup that will be much better. You're not as far off as you may think and just a few subtle changes will make all the difference.
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March 22, 2013 at
02:19:46 PM
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Wow thanks for all the help. I think I have come to a conclusion thanks to a few people. I really appreciate all of the insight and help.
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March 22, 2013 at
08:17:46 PM
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09/13/2006
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I would slap 2 pop ups on the front
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March 22, 2013 at
10:06:53 PM
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Take tilt out until car hooks up on RR
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March 25, 2013 at
04:49:58 PM
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http://www.eaglemotorsports.com/downloads/get.aspx?i=45266
This is a link to Eagle with there set ups. After reading the whole post.
It depends on how much you weigh which rear bar you change. If up to 180lbs change the Right Rear to 1.000 if over 200lbs change the left rear to 1.025
Also block the rear at 4in never more unless you are running non-wing.Also if the front pops to fast run 5 on the left front and a 5/3 on the right front.Just my 2 cents worth.
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