|
|
|
|
|
Topic: Simple questions from a first-time sprinter.
|
Email this topic to a friend |
Subscribe to this Topic
| Report this Topic to Moderator
|
|
Page 1 of 1 of 13 replies
|
|
|
|
|
June 08, 2012 at
10:20:27 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
06/08/2012
|
|
Posts:
|
18
|
|
|
|
I raced minis on and off a few years back, and am looking to make the jump to 360s. I have some pretty basic questions that I'd like help with.
First of all, is there a good resource or website (besides this forum) that can answer some of the basic questions, such as:
1) What factors go into deciding which rear end to run (4.11 or 4.86)?
2) Whats the difference between an internal coupler and swivel ball coupler, and are there advantages to one or the other?
3) Is there a guide available that tells you how to adjust shocks/bars to correct various handling issues?
4) Do people use scales anymore to set up the chassis?
Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
05:15:31 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
12/23/2011
|
|
Posts:
|
35
|
|
|
Yea theres a book you can get from speedway smith autosports publications called sprintcar technology. I am a rookie as well i just had my second race last night. I talked to alot of guys from the scone series im racing and they helped alot. Dont be scared to ask the fast guys
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
09:36:14 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
07/18/2009
|
|
Posts:
|
1947
|
|
|
|
The key to being a sucessful farm tractor driver would be, plow your own row... :/
In other words...HOLD YOUR LINE!... 
Opinions may vary...
|
|
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
01:10:16 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
05/29/2007
|
|
Posts:
|
326
|
|
|
This message was edited on
June 09, 2012 at
01:10:59 PM by texdel
A 4.86 will allow you to run lower gears to help you off of the corner on a short track (1/4 mile). A 4.11 allows you to reach higher top speeds with the same RPM range (3/8 - 1/2 mile). But now days the range of gear sets will allow for either. I'm sure others on here will have some good input.
|
.jpg)
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
02:29:13 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
11/06/2005
|
|
Posts:
|
711
|
|
|
Reply to:
Posted By: EJTownes on June 09 2012 at 05:15:31 AM
Yea theres a book you can get from speedway smith autosports publications called sprintcar technology. I am a rookie as well i just had my second race last night. I talked to alot of guys from the scone series im racing and they helped alot. Dont be scared to ask the fast guys
|
Exactly, this book was written by Jimmy Sills and Steve Smith, and is THE book on anything to do with setups. You can find it for around $25.00 and it is worth EVERY penny......
SUPPORT WILDLIFE, go to a sprint car race!
|
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
02:31:20 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
03/01/2005
|
|
Posts:
|
277
|
|
|
|
1) What texdel said. Also, I have been told that the ring and pinion last longer in a 4.11. Quick changes gears are available for 4.11's for any ratio that I can imagine needing. It's what I run 410 or 360.
2) Swivel spline allows some freedom at the back end of the drive shaft, eliminating bind. Much more reliable I am told, lasts longer. Advantage of internal coupler- it's cheaper. If you can afford the swivel spline I would get it.
3) What EJ Townes said. Of course what you like may not be what others like. Make friends with other racers and they'll help you out too. I have learned a lot from my my competitions crew chiefs over the last season. If you were fast in a mini, trust your gut too.
4) You don't need scales, but if you have them and know how to use them they can't hurt.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
02:45:32 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
08/04/2010
|
|
Posts:
|
53
|
|
|
|
This is our first year in a 305 had our first race last sat and our second will be tonight, Go to Maxim chassis website jermy standridge has a dvd on how to build a ground up sprint car very good info, plus the book from jimmy sills, and talk to the guys that u race with they will help you out. Last week four or five drivers talked to my son about driving and set up. they all say hold your line.
|
|
|
|
|
June 09, 2012 at
03:38:51 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
10/07/2011
|
|
Posts:
|
18
|
|
|
|
rookie here too. Trust your tires. Hold your line and STAND ON IT! The car doesnt work if you don't gas it.
EngiNERD
Performance
|
|
|
|
|
June 10, 2012 at
12:34:46 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
08/11/2005
|
|
Posts:
|
87
|
|
|
This message was edited on
June 10, 2012 at
12:36:49 AM by LLLosingit
If you can afford scales buy them and learn how to use them or find someone
that will let you scale your car. They can help in many ways. I put my baseline
setup in the car and scaled it with and with out the driver and wrote everything
down. This can help you with setup so you know what your total weight is and
your front to rear weights and side to side weight. A car to heavy front to rear
or side to side can have serious handling problems that simple adjustments just won't fix.
If your weights look good on your baseline setup then you know when you get to
the track you can make small adjustments for track conditions. One huge benefit
to knowing what you car scales is if you get into an accident, You can bring the
car home and replace the broken parts then put your baseline setup on the car
and put it back on the scale. If your weights are off then it's a good
possibility that you either tweaked the chassis or have other problems that
weren't visually apparent like stuck or bent arms,heims,shocks,torsion bars
ect... Anything that doesn't let the chassis react freely will make it hard if
not impossible to get a setup in the car that you will like and will make you go mad trying to figure out why nothing seems to work. Anytime I raced my
car I brought it home and started with my baseline setup then when I got to the
track I could look at the track and make adjustments from that point. Always
take notes on the track your running then when go back you'll have a better
idea of what the car needs setup wise.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
June 10, 2012 at
01:10:59 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
09/30/2005
|
|
Posts:
|
1387
|
|
|
|
for settups , its really difficult to mimic something another driver does and be successfull at it , I continueously bounced ideas around from (proubly? ) seven different drivers, untill I became comfortable with my own baseline, If something feels close in the car, but, not quite right, dont be afraid to try it again, but, next time change your driving a bit to suit the tune of the car, this sounds a little deep for a beginner, but proubly the largest problem when a team starts to struggle immediatly, make small changes and make note of thier responce to the car, make Absolutly sure your talking to a driver or crew that understands what type weight and power your car has, (this is a biggy) , the books mentioned are a good generic appetizer to what lies ahead, I found personal reward in tuning my car to what I felt, soon the positions start coming, then this racing thing turns into a disease, only some of us understand there is no drug for it.. goodluck..
|
|
|
|
|
June 10, 2012 at
08:35:57 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
02/13/2010
|
|
Posts:
|
61
|
|
|
This message was edited on
June 10, 2012 at
08:40:59 AM by crsa305
Reply to:
Posted By: jeremyjay46 on June 08 2012 at 10:20:27 PM
I raced minis on and off a few years back, and am looking to make the jump to 360s. I have some pretty basic questions that I'd like help with.
First of all, is there a good resource or website (besides this forum) that can answer some of the basic questions, such as:
1) What factors go into deciding which rear end to run (4.11 or 4.86)?
2) Whats the difference between an internal coupler and swivel ball coupler, and are there advantages to one or the other?
3) Is there a guide available that tells you how to adjust shocks/bars to correct various handling issues?
4) Do people use scales anymore to set up the chassis?
Thanks for the help!
|
Keep it simple.. Dont worry about the brand new parts you see coming out or what the guy who hauls in with the toter home or semi are doing.. Buy the stevie smith book and video and he will get you close. Rent a track and get hot laps, a 360 is a huge difference then a 305 or any stock car type race car. Most chassis brand have basic set ups on there website like xxx and maxim. Your going to find that most of them are very similar in set ups.
4:11 or 486 are fine just depends on what gears you have to use. We had one of both but we use a 4:11.
internal couple works fine the swivel is just something new. I do notice alot of chatter and vibration in my driveline. Its square but i deal with it. I know guys you still use the 10-10 external couplers which is like the old style. but not the oldest.
|
|
|
|
June 10, 2012 at
05:44:08 PM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
07/10/2007
|
|
Posts:
|
947
|
|
|
My best advise is to get with someone that knows what they're doing and work with them solely to get started. Don't listen to 4 different people and try to combine their knowledge. Not everyone does stuff the same so stick with one person who can focus on what you need.
As far those books, I'm not a fan due to one reason. I've never even opened one because i helped a Rookie team about 7 years ago. They show up to race track with 30 gallons of fuel in the tank. i asked why? they said thats what my setup book said to do.....so i was over that book already!
do it in the dirt
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
June 11, 2012 at
06:31:11 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
09/20/2010
|
|
Posts:
|
32
|
|
|
Reply to:
Posted By: LLLosingit on June 10 2012 at 12:34:46 AM
If you can afford scales buy them and learn how to use them or find someone
that will let you scale your car. They can help in many ways. I put my baseline
setup in the car and scaled it with and with out the driver and wrote everything
down. This can help you with setup so you know what your total weight is and
your front to rear weights and side to side weight. A car to heavy front to rear
or side to side can have serious handling problems that simple adjustments just won't fix.
If your weights look good on your baseline setup then you know when you get to
the track you can make small adjustments for track conditions. One huge benefit
to knowing what you car scales is if you get into an accident, You can bring the
car home and replace the broken parts then put your baseline setup on the car
and put it back on the scale. If your weights are off then it's a good
possibility that you either tweaked the chassis or have other problems that
weren't visually apparent like stuck or bent arms,heims,shocks,torsion bars
ect... Anything that doesn't let the chassis react freely will make it hard if
not impossible to get a setup in the car that you will like and will make you go mad trying to figure out why nothing seems to work. Anytime I raced my
car I brought it home and started with my baseline setup then when I got to the
track I could look at the track and make adjustments from that point. Always
take notes on the track your running then when go back you'll have a better
idea of what the car needs setup wise.
|
How do you know when their is to much side weight, front weight, or even rear weight? I understand when you have all new parts getting your own baseline but whats right and whats wrong?
Think Twice Pass Nice
|
|
|
|
|
June 11, 2012 at
10:40:56 AM
|
|
|
Joined:
|
06/08/2012
|
|
Posts:
|
18
|
|
|
|
Thanks a ton guys! It helps a lot. My next hurtle will be finding a reliable crew member that will be there every week. I could do it alone with Minis... probably not the case with a full size. I'm 34 though, and want to make the jump sooner than later. Not to mention, with the economy, there's some good deals out there.
|
|
|
